Isandlwana Kwazulu-Natal

The historic town of Isandlwana is where the British Army suffered its heaviest defeat.

ISANDLWANA AND RORKE’S DRIFT
THE ZULU WAR BATTLEFIELDS

RORKE’S DRIFT 22-23 JANUARY 1879

Isandlwana Zulus defeat the British Army

The word – Isandlwana – comes from the mountain’s resemblance to the second stomach of an ox. It also resembles a sphinx – the regimental symbol of the South Wales Borderers then camped beneath it.

With no real experience of Zulu tactics and against advice, Lord Chelmsford did not form a laager and instead the camp, including its vital ammunition wagons was strung out along the slopes of the hill.

The easy defeat of the local chief had two consequences – one, that an attitude of complacency was created amongst the British and two, that the Zulu king Cetshwayo was spurred into action and 23,000 Zulu warriors were despatched.
on January 23rd Chelmsford divided the force at Isandlwana and moved out to attack the Zulu impi (army).

After Chelmsford had left however, the British saw large numbers of Zulus on ridges in entirely the opposite direction from that in which they were being sought by Chelmsford and sent a force of 500 cavalry from Isandlwana to trap them in a pincer movement.

However, when chasing some herdsmen, the patrol surprised the entire Zulu army, who, equally surprised, were sitting immediately below them in a small depression in the process of trying to decide who of them would mediate with the British and whether to attack during the wrong phase of the moon.
Shots were fired and at approximately 10.30am more than twenty thousand Zulus attacked, overwhelming the British, stretched – a yard between a man – over a distance of two miles, allowing only a handful of the 1300 soldiers and their African retainers to escape.
The battlefield of Isandlwana some months after the battle. The abandoned wagons and bleached bones still remain.

To add to the ferocity of the fighting, a partial eclipse of the sun caused an eery dusk to settle over the battlefield.

By 3.30 pm it was all over, the Zulus having killed every living thing including cattle, horses and even dogs, all of which lay among the human dead. The story that the British lost the battle because they could not open the ammunition boxes is not true. The boxes were opened easily but the ammunition wagons were too far away and the troops too stretched to resupply them when their 70 rounds each were expended. The Zulus disembowelled the dead and then took anything of value and departed with their wounded.

Zulu warrior in battle regalia In addition to the British dead (858 white soldiers and 458 black soldiers), more than 1,000 Zulu warriors lay dead. The disembowelling of the dead was required to allow their spirits to leave. In addition, the warriors were required to wear something of their victims. On leaving the battlefield, the zulu warriors were expected to undergo a cleansing ritual.

Chelmsford Ignores the Reports

Chelmsford, 12 miles away on a fruitless search for the Zulu army received garbled reports that something was wrong at Isandlwana, but from his position it looked peaceful enough in the distance. By the time he returned in the afternoon, he could just see the last of the Zulu soldiers retiring over the ridge as his men stumbled over the packed bodies.

To make matters worse, he could see an eery glow in the direction of Natal – Rorke’s Drift was clearly under attack.

His force camped on the battlefield, his soldiers waking to find that they had been sleeping on and amongst their dead comrades. Fearing another attack, the force moved off at first light.

The Consequences of the Defeat

Isandlwana today with white cairns marking the graves of the dead.Isandlwana was one of the biggest defeats ever suffered in the history the British army which lost more officers than at Waterloo.

The defeat guaranteed two things – the perception of the Zulus as herdsman/part time soldiers was transformed into one of disciplined, controlled savagery and secondly, the defeat ensured the eventual destruction of the Zulu kingdom.

The majority of the British Army was destroyed, together with most of their supplies. It would take months for both the supplies and reinforcements to arrive. To make matters worse, the Southern column became bottled up in Eshowe.

Oudtshoorn, Garden Route, Little Karoo, Western Cape South Africa

Oudtshoorn, the gem of the Little Karoo…Where many fortunes… in days gone by

were made and lost. There was a terrific boom in the sale of Ostrich feathers…

then the vagaries of the market caused the bottom to fall out…

and overnight fortunes were lost.

Once you arrive at George you have a choice of continuing on to Knysna…

proceeding to Oudtshoorn via the Outeniqua pass or via one of the old

historic passes.

Oudtshoorn is part of the Garden Route… and worth the 52 kilometre detour.

For me the striking feature of Oudtshoorn is the many wonderful buildings built

out of stone. The buildings are old and very strongly constructed.
Some
are outstanding examples of architecture.

One of the two big attractions in Oudtshoorn are the Cango Caves,
and secondly Ostriches.

The Cango Caves

One of the worlds great natural wonders…

It is situated close to Oudtshoorn. Weird and awesome limestone

formations in a wide variety of natural colours…a subterranean wonderland.

There are Regular guided tours daily.

The Cango Caves is certainly worth a visit.

The caves sculptured by nature through the ages with varying shapes

of stalactites and stalagmites.

Some of the chambers are colossal.

Stalactites…
are formed by deposits of carbonate of lime…formed by dripping

water. Hanging like icicles from the roof. They form extremely slowly.

Stalagmites form from the ground upwards.

During the guided tour coloured lights are used to wonderful effect

which will leave a lasting impression.

Ostriches

There are 400 ostrich farms in the vicinity of Oudtshoorn…

The 3 show farms have built an enviable reputation for themselves and

are justifiably referred to as show farms…. Become acquainted

with this exotic bird species, the largest in the world.

The Highgate Ostrich farm…

run by the Hooper Family has had many foreign tourists as well as

South African Tourists since it was established one hundred years ago.

It was opened to the public in 1938.

There are other attractions…

The Cango Wildlife Ranch…

is situated just outside Oudtshoorn.

It sprang to life in 1977 and has grown to become one of the favourite

tourist attractions in the region.

The wildlife ranch was first known as the Crocodile Ranch but the new

owners introduced an innovative concept, namely, the plight of

endangered species, and in line with this thinking it was expanded to

include a number of big cats.

The endangered Cheetah was their first priority.

Cheetah

The ranch is now known as Cango Wildlife Ranch, Oudtshoorn, Garden Route, South Africa

In 1988 the Ranch developed a facility known as Cheetahland.

This facility is home to a variety of big cats, which are viewed

from an elevated “catwalk.”

Crystal Waters Trout Fishing Underberg

Crystal Waters Trout Fishing Underberg.

There are several places in South Africa with the name “Crystal Waters”.  The one that I am referring to is Crystal Waters of Underberg.
They offer fine trout fishing and berg style log and stone cabin accommodation.

Crystal Waters Underberg

The dam can be fished from the sloping grassed sides in many places and from the jetty in front of the cottages.
Located at the end of the district road and surrounded by the mountains of the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park, this peaceful valley offers the perfect setting for dam and river fishing while experiencing the peace and tranquility of the surrounding mountains and at the same time enjoying total privacy.

The 30 hectare dam is situated in the southern corner of the farm and is fed by three mountain streams. This accounts for the crystal clear waters. The rivers that feed the dam do not run through any agricultural lands.

Two streams enter the dam from the Okhahlambe Park. These two  have created channels that run some distance into the dam and these areas consistently deliver good fishing.
The third stream enters  the dam at the top and this also offers consistently good fishing.

The dam is well stocked with 4″ Rainbow and Brown trout at the end of each summer. These fish have been grown out in a hatchery on the farm. This hatchery has been in operation since 2005 and many dams in the Underberg district stock Crystal Waters “Stockies”.

Family fishing on the trout dam.

Float tubes and kick boats with sneakers are welcome. There are two boats for the exclusive use of the cottages and guest’s boats are also welcome. Outboard motors are not allowed.

There is a rod limit of 10 fisherman on the dam at any one time which ensures an undisturbed days fishing.